Muchalls DWS fun chapter II

So it preyed on my mind for about a month. Got back from holidays and checked tide tables, not great. Checked weather, not great. Then a calm sunny evening, high tide at 9 pm, Far from ideal, but Scott is daft enough to give it a go, so off we set.

The sea was dead calm, the cave looking decidedly gloomy. Better prepared this time - dry thinner wetsuit, dry shoes, chalkbag, and secret weapon - waterproof porch.

So off we go, along the same section as last time, the cave incredibly atmospheric; water laps echoing, and doves cooing up in the rafters. The moves feel easier with a bit of chalk, the rock greasy but hangable. The moves delicate and balancy, the holds small but crisp. I get to the end of the foot rail and onto the shakeout holds before the stepdown, which feel a lot metter with a bit of chalk on the tips. Stepdown goes OK this time, a small shout of relief. And then another stepdown, moving down adn round the small overlap, gettin a wee bit pumped from no warmup and hanging on a bit harder than I need to, due to being slightly gripped and greasiness of rock. Then another stepdown, and a feel round the far side of the arete for some hope. A small quartzy hold occasionally pokes its head out the water and if I can stay on it I might have a chance......

Foot feels good! and a reach up brings a friendly finger jug, fondled lovingly in the dark. Reel it in, step up and onto the liferaft ledge and relief. I shout to Scott to come on over and try and lean out to offer him some advice, but he flounders on the stepdown move and is in.

It's now pretty damned dark, so the torch comes out and on, the tiny beam stabbing at potential holds beckoning towards the semicircle of light at the exit arch. Scott swims around and volunteers torch holding duty while I try and pick my way across. A tricky bridge and rockover manouver in a potentially risky place with a lurking ledge at head level, but a waterdab for the foot stabilises and onto easier ledges moving further right to the bulges that lead to the exit. Increasingly harder moves lead across to a sloping hold, which is just about hangable with both hands, feet now blind due to a bulge, torch or no torch. Slap to a tiny crimp, try to match, but it's never going to happen, so time for a swim. The water is amazing, and the torch looks like a light sabre underwater. An inspection reveals just two moves to easy ground. Just two moves, but a yawning gap between done and not done. Life.

The First pitch, however is good in it's own right and worth of a name and grade, as it can be reversed to escape;

Greased Darkening, 20 m, French 6a, S0/1 at high tide due to slightly slabby nature of rock, otherwise escalate to S2 or 3 for other states of tide. If there is any swell it is best avoided, as the shape of the arch funnels waves and could be dangerous.