Tuesday 27 May 2008

Scottish Heaven







As close to ideal weather as you could possibly want.....

Well, maybe it was a bit too windy for doing mountain routes, and a bit warm for good friction on sandstone slopers, but if you don't know what grade things are anyway, it just feels hard.

Sword of Gideon was definitely worth the effort. Pitches one and four are just scrambling, but the rock is so nice that it's still good climbing. Pitch 2 was a bit of a tussle. The flared rock means any good gear is hard fough, the moves are a bit blind, and there is a lot of smeary footwork. And the foot traverse at the top was exciting in howlign winds. But hey ho, given the alternative of still weather and midges from hell ,i know what I would go for.

Ardesaig Crag is one of those wee gems you rarely find. Perfect rock, a sunny aspect, fun climbing, and 5 mins from the road. Nothing hard, just a good mellow crag.

Sunday bouldering at Torridon was a bit of a revelation. It's the first place in Scotland (apart from Glen Clova, but that's different) that has really inspired me. Perfect rock, great lines, stunning location. I think we were fortunate, because the ground was bone dry, and the breeze kept the midges away, as I suspect it would be hellish. And some major inspiring lines to go at. Unfortunately the heat and the rough rock took it's toll on hands that are soft again after the bullet hard post Font tips, but such is life.



















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